ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE: The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes (Rouge) is showing nicely, delivering aromas of rose petals, raspberries and cherries complemented by deep bass notes of loamy sol. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with lively acids and youthfully chewy tannins, it's an attractive rendition of the appellation, especially if readers are prepared to wait a few years.
It was a pleasure to taste with Thibault Morey, who is doing great things at this certified-organic eight-hectare Chassagne-Montrachet domaine. Reds are destemmed and see a total of around 20 days' maceration, including only one or two punch-downs, the emphasis being on gentle pump-overs. The whites are pressed long and hard—three hours with quite a few rotations to break the cake—and begin fermentation in tank after a light débourbage; they're barreled down when fermentation is well-established. Percentages of new oak are modest: 25% new for communal appellations, 35% for premiers crus, and 35% to 40% for grands crus, barrels being sourced from a number of coopers including Séguin Moreau, Doreau, Cadus, Cavin and Stockinger. The results are worthy of attention: rich, perfumed reds and chalky, structured whites with lovely cut and grip. That these characteristics were evident in the 2018 vintage, an extreme year in a number of respects, augers well for other vintages, and I look forward to my next visit to the domaine.